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Half way up a mountain, Utah, United States

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Day 35: Haworth to Elslack

A map, so you can see how far north I have come:



I was very nervous over breakfast this morning about leaving the security of my deluxe secret garden room and stepping out into the unknown again.

It seems a while since I have truly been on my own. This is a tough environment too and the forecast was for rain all day.

I got a cab back to the reservoir where I had left the Pennine Way yesterday. But first I left my stick in the B&B and we had to turn around to retrieve it.

I set out, up through the sodden fields, closely following the guide book directions and map which I had sealed away in plastic bags. I had stuffed my camera, Ipod and phone down in my pack to protect from the weather but then of course I couldn't use the them. The rain makes everything so inconvenient and renders my new back pack pockets useless.


It was only lightly drizzling so it wasn't too bad, but increasingly misty as I climbed higher, back onto the moors.

In one field with a couple of options for paths, I stopped to confirm I was going the right way. I was deep in thought, studying the map at every angle and carefully reading the guide book instructions when a sheep strode right up to me and started to nibble on my fingers. Her mouth was warm and fuzzy and I could feel her teeth as she gently nibbled and muzzled me. Sheep are a scared bunch usually and generally watch as you pass and run off when you get too close. All the other sheep in this field had already leapt off but this sheep kept to my side, as if guiding me as I walked on. I would have loved to take her with me, but I had to shut the gate over the other side of the field so I thanked her and we said our goodbyes.

I think I believe in reincarnation. I am glad I am a vegetarian.

I climbed up to Bare Hill which was indeed bare. Mist.

But as I walked on across the moors the clouds began to lift and a view of Cowling the surrounding countryside emerged.


I didn't see anyone else on the trail today except for a trail runner who came up rapidly behind me and scared me to death.

In Lothersdale the path took me right past the Hare and Hound and not wanting to pass up a refreshment stop, I had a pint of beer and a packet of crisps.


I had been walking without waterproofs as the weather was surprisingly decent but after my snack it all began to change again. As I approached Thornton-on-craven the heavens opened and the downpour began. Luckily I had a number for a B&B in the area and called for directions. It was however two miles in the other direction so I declined until she offered to pick me up.

The Grange B&B in Elslack is well worth a stay and they have looked after me very well here. It is a beautiful, almost stately home. I have a big bar of chocolate in my room, a lovely claw foot tub in which to soak, wifi for blogging and all at very affordable price. Sally has provided me with a bowl of rice for my Ipod as I have been advised that this may serve to draw out the dampness (although it has been in rice all night now and it is still not working), she dried my clothes and even turned on the fire in an attempt to dry out my boots.



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