Day 36: Eslack to Malham

Hmm, suddenly feeling really exhausted. Could be something to do with the pint of beer I have just guzzled at the Lister Arms in Malham and the hundreds of miles I have walked.

I have had the most perfect day today.

It was dry and somewhat sunny all day. It all got really superb, when five miles into the walk, I left Gargrave and entered into the Yorkshire Dales National Park and I could see it all spread out in front of me like a flawless patchwork quilt.

I have been in the mist for the last four days but I am sure that the views before me would have been breathtaking under any circumstance and they felt strangely familiar. I felt oddly as though I had come home! You see, I am a Yorkshire lass at heart. I was born in Yorkshire, Hull, a sea port just south and east of here. Having left Yorkshire at the age of three, I have always considered myself a Londoner but I do feel a deep connection with this countryside.

The scenery around me had definitely changed (not that I have been able to see much for the last few days) and this was unmistakably the Yorkshire dales. Expansive rolling hills and dales, a jigsaw of various shapes formed by miles of rock walls. A much tamer landscape than the southern pennine moors.

I descended from the hills and the path followed along the scenic banks of the Aire river.

This was potentially the best walking of my trip so far. Again, it could just be the contrast from walking in rain and mist for the last few days, but I don't think so. Today will be hard to beat.

The river was full and cascading down between grassy banks. The odd fly fisherman stood casting on the banks. Cows chewed happily in the adjoining fields, beneath large, scattered oak trees and it was a tranquil, pleasing scene to walk through. The cows were collared with bells around their necks and the horses all wore coats and it seemed as if everything was happy. How could you not be happy if you lived here?

Unfortunately my camera had decided not to work again and I was unable to capture this bucolic scene.

I met a fairly elderly, but amazingly well looking couple and we exchanged stories. They walked the Pennine Way 40 years ago and last year completed the entire 630 miles of the Coastal Path. They also walked from their home in Yorkshire to Rome! They were envious of my exploits and I was in admiration of their devotion to long distance walking and they were an inspiration to me.

There is something about walking into a village that is so much better than driving into it. Walking into Malham was no exception. I had been told it was small but was surprised to find it was just a collection of a few rock houses, two pubs, cafe and YHA. All this nestled below Malham Cove, an impressive curved limestone cliff at the head of the valley.

I settled into the YHA and had a shower while I tried to recharge my camera, hoping that this was the problem. I was desperate for photographs thinking that the weather may be bad again tomorrow.

Once charged, I decided to go into the village and ended up walking along a tempting pathway to Janets Foss. What could this be? The suspense was killing me and the sign said it was only a mile away. I bought an ice-cream and ambled along free of my back pack burden. I was clean, my hair blew freely in the breeze and it felt wonderful to be walking but not to be sweaty and stinky. It was a dreamy path along a babbling brook and up a beautifully wooded valley to a waterfall. The mystery unfolded as I found out that Janet is the fairy that lives behind the waterfall and foss is Scandinavian for waterfall. It was worth the walk and I was able to take some photographs.

Malham village:





The Lister Arms and where I am now:






The wooded valley up to Janet Foss:











Janet Foss:













The Yorkshire Dales:






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