I am sitting in the North Inn, at Pendeen, Cornwall. Just finishing up with a "Tribute, premium Cornish ale" (wish you were here Curt to share this with me).
Feeling absolutely brilliant and very proud of myself because I have completed my first day of LEJOG. After having so much difficulty just walking approximately two miles to the Case the other day (yesterday??), I was seriously doubting my capabilities. My pack is just way too heavy.
After a five hour train journey and arriving in Penzance yesterday, I set up my tent outside Castle Horneck youth hostel and then proceeded to enjoy the excellent facilities within. A beautiful Georgian house recently remodelled with a full on bar, cafe, lounge with TV and some great people talk to. Finally got to talk with Curt but still have to figure out all my communications and technology, because despite eventually getting a data plan set up with Vodaphone for my Ipad, I still can't get Internet access. Once I get access I will be able to publish these blogs.
Took an open top bus to Lands End this morning. I can honestly say I did not know if I was going to be able to walk even a mile but living in the moment, I didn't care because the bus ride was beautiful.
Had my picture taken in front of the legendary sign pointing towards John O'groats and indicating the mileage from whence I had come (cheesy but obligatory!)
And then started off walking along the cliffs. And promptly got lost. I was mapless but presumed it would be easy enough, walking along a coastal path. My only plan was to walk from the very end of England, north eastwards, keeping the sea to my left and england to my right. Then turn right at Pendeen light house and find somewhere to stay. How difficult could it be?
Pause....... to pet the pub dog walking under my table. God I love pubs.
The southwest coastal path (SWCP) turned out to be a well worn path as expected but perhaps a little too well worn as there was a multitude of them to choose from. There were neat little sign posts indicating the way to go when it was completely obvious and none when absolutely necessary. This drove me nuts and a wrong turn invariably meant a detour up another massive hill and eventually back down again when I caught sight of the main path meandering below me or visa versa. I never seemed to make the right choice (kind of like changing lanes in a traffic jam).
At one point I realized I was obviously following the wrong trail when I became "cliffed" out and was forced to bushwhack up the cliff. I arrived at a barbed wire fence, presumably to keep people from the cliff edge that I had been walking along. It was either go all the way back or scale the fence. With an almighty heave ho, I hurled my pack over, not in the least confident that I was going to be able to get my self over it. But, feeling very light without all that weight, I climbed over, gingerly avoiding the barbs on top and landed proudly on the other side to join my pack. However, I also joined a pack of bulls. Ten off them to be exact and located right where I needed to walk. They didn't have rings in their noses and didn't look too terribly threatening but they did all have massive pointy horns. I put my head down and tried not to make eye contact as I walked amongst them, so close I could feel them breathing on me.
Tin and copper have been mined here since the mid 1700s and ruined mines and chimneys litter the coast line.
Mine shafts are everywhere and walkers such as myself are in danger of death.
I could fall down this hole
Apparently they think this poor soul did.
Do you think they looked for him down the hole? Made me start to think about what would happen if I went missing. A missing poster would probably go up, like this one, and I can just imagine all the reports that would come flooding in with sightings of me. "oh yes, I remember her, she was staggering a bit, carrying this massive pack she was" and "she asked me where she could get a cup of tea" or "she stopped us and asked where the next ice cream van could be located" or perhaps even "I remember seeing her, looked lost, kept on back tracking and asking if she was going the right way".
I think I made a point of talking to everyone I passed as it made me feel better. Most people were just out for leisurely walks and not one person seemed to be doing what I was doing.
I did find a refreshment stand and had the most fantastic cup of tea.
Knackered!
Ten miles and six hours later I caught sight of Pendeen light house and turned right into the village.
So here I am camped in the field next to the pub. I did it. I walked my first day and lived to tell the tale.
Tomorrow I will walk 14 miles to St Ives and it is supposed to be the most "challenging, rugged and remote" section of the SWCP. Tomorrow I will have a map, purchased this evening from the minute but fantastically stocked (way better than any huge supermarket in Salt Lake) village shop in Pendeen. I had twigletts and ribena for dinner. Did I tell you that I love this country?
Good night, from my REI quarter dome tent. Wish me luck tomorrow.
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