I was initially unable to put any weight on my right ankle but once I put my boots back on and had worked it in a bit, it miraculously improved (I am putting a lot of faith in that cortisone shot you gave me Dr Rhodes - so far so good :)) as it has so often done at home.
So I set off in overcast, damp weather and it felt great. Confidently, I strode off down an unknown footpath that seemed to go in the right general direction back to the coast line and sure enough it spat me right out onto the SWCP. Although my shoulders felt bruised and my body generally hammered, I felt amazingly good and didn't seem to notice the weight of my pack for the first 7 hours! - comforting to think I may be used to this already.
The trail was deserted and absolutely spectacular. I didn't see a soul for the first 5 hours and then only bumped in to two other couples and one lone guy. This could be partly due to the atrocious weather that ensued. The damp mist turned into a gentle drizzle then an absolute downpour for the remainder of the day.
The first few hours were my dream come true. From plan conception I had romantic visions of walking along the cliff tops on the edge of britain, at one with the wind, the sky and the ground; taking in the scenery, the nature, the smells and the history of my homeland. Well that dream became my reality and I was immensely happy. And I wasn't just talking myself into this state, I was honestly feeling it!
I walked with and without Ipod, listening to a variety of music but was most inspired by the Celtic songs that fit the scenery so perfectly. I was happily belting out the lyrics to a Nora Jones song and had just got to the part "come on home and turn me on" when I literally bumped into the lone guy I had mentioned earlier. I smiled a toothy, embarrassed grin but he
understood that anything went up here on the cliffs and he seemed as happy to see me as I him. Coming from the opposite direction we were anxious to exchange news of the path ahead. I had been walking for about 5 hours at this point and was thinking It had been wonderful but I was ready to stop walking sooner rather than later. He told me I was half way and I felt devastated and psychologically things went down hill for me from that point forth!
Physically there were down hills too but just as many up hills. Up and down the cliffs I walked, over bogs, rocky sections, parts where the trail was so skinny I could hardly place two feet together in it. The overgrown ferns and long grasses on either side of the skinny trail would drench me as I brushed through them. That, and the pouring rain proved too much for my gortex jacket, boots and gaiters. I was soaked through to the bone. I wanted to stop, rest, snack, take off my pack but every time I tried, I would freeze, so it was better to keep on walking.
The Ipod eventually died and instead I talked to myself, usually words of encouragement and it seemed to really help.
I even found myself talking to the signs. There were not many of them, so I was always glad to see them, even if they brought me bad news. Initially it would be "thank you mister sign post" but later it was "f ###, not another 6 miles still". But I would make a point of pausing for a few minutes in front of the sign, brushing them off if necessary and hoping to glean more information out of them but of course never did. But they did tell me I was heading in the right direction and I was luckily doing much better with route finding today (probably because the path was so much more remote and there was not a multitude of them to choose from, unlike yesterday)
Some did make me laugh. This farmer has a sense of humour.
And more hazards......
Because of this
This is the only private property sign I have seen. Great idea - snakes instead of Alsatians!
During the last few miles I have to admit, I felt desperate. I did consider putting up my tent and spending a night out on the trail, but everything, including my tent was soaking wet. The thought of being in St Ives, warm and dry, was driving me forward and I had already decided I was taking a B & B for the night.
The trail was becoming increasingly slippery and I was very aware that one fall could be the end of me. Along with the signs, my walking stick had become my close friend. I had deliberated over whether to bring it, but now it was indispensable, allowing me to balance on stepping stones crossing the bogs and helped to get me up the hills and over the rocks. But one mile from St Ives, in my frenzy to get there, I slipped and fell forwards. My shin hit hard on a pointed rock and the weight of my pack kept me pinned down. I thought something must be broken. I howled in pain and assumed I was doomed. But I saw no bones protruding from my leg and thankful of this, I almost ran the last mile into St Ives.
St Ives - a gorgeous, picture perfect pirate town. But all I wanted was a B&B. Despite the rain, tourists were out in hoards, paddling in the streets and chatting to each other from under umbrellas and huge bag like ponchos like it was all completely normal. Water poured from the roofs and drain pipes of ancient buildings, amassing into a flash floods down the tiny cobble stoned streets and alley ways.
Therefore, I did not look out of place as I turned up at the tourist information centre, looking like I had been sitting in a bath for 10 hours with my clothes and back pack on.
Although I must have looked like I needed help as I was given a cup of tea,
they booked me a B&B and even drove me to it! The very kind lady said her daughter was currently in Chile back packing and she hoped someone would do the same for her daughter if she needed it. I assured her that good karma was coming her way.
I experienced elation and relief on a magnitude that I have never experienced before as I walked through the threshold of Porthminster bed and breakfast and was greeted by the nicest man in the world - David Hodge. He had already turned on the central heating in anticipation of the weary, bedraggled traveller's arrival.
I am still here now, in my wonderful cozy room, overlooking the bay. I have been made to feel so welcome here and it feels like home - I will have a hard time leaving tomorrow. David is now following my blog and is all excited to get a mention on it! Please check out this link www.porthminster.com and you must come and stay if you are ever in St Ives.
-Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:St Ives,United Kingdom
Makes me want to join you. I bet a cuppa tea has never tasted SO great!
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