Day 39: Hawes to Tan Hill Inn

The Fairfield was another luxury B&B.

We left Hawes and set out across the fields, stocking up on bars and lunch items from this whole food shop with an appropriate name.


We ascended steadily but slowly up to another high point on the Pennine Way.



And ate our yummy lunch


Consisting of pitta breads, squeezable mushroom pate and Wensleydale cheese. Of course Hawes is in Wensleydale. I cannot say Wensleydale without Wallace and Grommet coming to mind. Visions of large clay hands excitedly shaking, a wide mouth with oversized teeth saying "cheeeese grommet" and freshly shawn sheep stacked on top of each other in a triangular formation atop a motor bike whizzing through the Yorkshire Dales. If you haven't seen Wallace and Grommit then you must - brilliantly funny.

This was a long day of walking (17 miles) and we ended it by climbing again across the soggy moors towards Tan Hill Inn.



Tan Hill Inn is the highest pub in Great Britain. As we came around the brow of the hill, there it was, situated in solitude on top of the desolate moors, shrouded in mist and looking heavenly. I could not hobble fast enough to get in the door and had to step over sheep sheltering in the doorway to get in.


The bleak landscape of it's location, it's cold grey exterior and the quietness of the moors was a complete contrast to within. Inside a coal fire burned and the bar was crowded and noisy. The cold flag stone flooring was warmed by the fire and the gentle lighting. Dogs wandered around hoping to get scraps and a cat was curled up on the piano stool. The atmosphere was buzzing with anticipation of the evening's entertainment, a blue grass band firm Nashville!

By midnight we were merrily singing along with a particularly raucous rugby club celebrating a stag night. Then we had to find our tent amongst dozens of others camped on the misty moors outside.

It had been another brilliant day of contrasts and connections.



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